Wednesday 29 June 2011

Day 4: Aberaeron to Newgale

I got up later than I intended just before five. A very windy night with the wind blowing off the sea. It was still windy: the forecast was for a north-west wind, this was a westerly. The sky was cloudy but seemed to be clearing from the west.


As I was leaving the campsite there was a large bird of prey on a fencepost. I wondered if it was a red kite but it wasn't. Later another even larger one flew across low down in front of me. Not sure what it was, either.

I went straight through town and immediately uphill; this was going to be a rollercoaster ride at least to Cardigan. After a few miles my arse was starting to complain. I'd slathered it with sudacreme but not bothered with the plasters, perhaps they did more good yesterday than I’d realised. It was hard going for a while, my state of well-being seeming to be dependent entirely on how my bum felt. Added to my breakfast supplies at a petrol station then stopped in a layby to eat it. When I set off bum felt better although slightly worse going up hill. There were lots of hills, not steep perhaps 7, 8 or 9%, but they were short.


Between 7:30 and 8:30 there was a fair bit of commuter traffic. The usual single-minded half asleep drivers determined to get past at the earliest opportunity so they could get back on the end of the queue just in front.

By the time I got to Cardigan I realised I had to get some plaster on so I looked for a WC which I hoped would be in a cafe. Found an excellent one which was a cellar bar with live music at night. Fortunately a spacious WC for my contortions.

"What would you like, lovely?" I had a black coffee. "Going far?" "A fair way". "Not something like Birmingham I hope!" I said I was aiming for St David’s Head today and she was duly impressed!

Cardigan looked like a nice town but I didn't hang around because I wanted to get on. The plaster seemed to do the trick and this changed my whole outlook; I spent more time looking around taking more interest in my surroundings and taking photographs. More ups and downs but I was going well. I decided I would stop for lunch when I got to Fishguard.


. A replica iron age fort in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.


. --------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - so it is!


Entering the town was a steep downhill followed by a very steep uphill which I sailed up.


I looked around for a suitable take-away but couldn't see much -- perhaps I was in the wrong area -- so I settled for haddock and chips. No suitable seating so I rode out of town until I reached the A40 and realised this was not where I should be but I stopped and ate. Very disappointing, chips kept warm too long, batter soggy although the fish was ok


This morning I'd thought I might get to St David's head then go on to Newgale. At lunchtime this seemed unlikely so I thought I'd be camping somewhere on St David's Head.

The last bit to St David's head was undulating and I was going quite well. I went straight through the city without stopping and headed for St Justinian which looked like as far west as you can get on a road. I took a wrong road (too far south) and came to a nice looking creek (Porthclais- a harbour built in the 12th century to serve St Davids, now used by local fishing boats and recreational craft.) where cars were parked and loads of people were mooching about. I carried on uphill until I came to a junction and saw a sign to St Justinian. I rode as far as I could, parked up and walked down to the sea. An enormous lifeboat station with several large inflatables around it. I spent a while wandering around taking photos.






Then back to St Davids, Britain's smallest city, where I went to the supermarket. I set off thinking I'd stop at the first campsite. I was still feeling pretty good so did in fact go on to Newgale, having paused a while at Solva, which lies in a beautiful ravine at the mouth of the River Solva.








As I descended the hill into Newgale I could see the campsite with a pub at the entrance. My sort of campsite: just a field with reception in a caravan, good showers and cheap. Just across the road from the sea. Most campers seemed to be surfers or windsurfers. There was a stiff breeze coming off the sea but I found a reasonably sheltered spot behind a hedge.

Double mirrors in the shower room enabled me to see the damage to my bum for the first time; not a pretty sight, a bit raw with skin hanging loose! So, copious amounts of sudacreme.

Heated a meat and potato pie in my bodged up bain marie. Followed by two chocolate trifles, bananas and nuts. Couple of glasses of wine followed by Galaxy hot chocolate.

Didn't bother with the pub and had an early night and fell asleep listening to podcasts.

This had been a superb day. The plasters and sudacreme had made a massive difference.


Distance: 115 .10 k

Time: 7: 38: 59

Average: 15.0 k/hr

Max: 59.5/hr

Height asc: 1909 m


Campsite: Newgale camping site, Wood Farm, Newgale, Haverfordwest. £5 plus 50p token for shower. Basic but good showers, friendly; my type of site.

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